#21
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mg87 - what I did was to cut the original ARC fan cable in half, and solder a standard computer fan connector. That allow me to try various different fans and ULNA attenuators.
As you can see, at first I did not use the silicone mounts to fasten the fans - I got those later on. Those are essential. If you also solder a similar connector on the original ARC fan, that will allow you to easily revert to stock if needed (prior sale etc.). Last edited by Elberoth; 02-13-2013 at 05:14 AM. |
#22
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That is a great road map, Thanks! All of the parts should be here by Friday, including spare 3 pin molex fittings.
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#23
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Elberoth,
I am well underway right now and have a question. When you switched to silicone "screws" dis you leave in the rubber grommets for the original installation? |
#24
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Yes. The silicone mounts stratched just enough. I think that when you get rid of those grommets, the holes will be to big.
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#25
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My silicone screws are not long enough. I'll have to use the OEM metal screws.
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#26
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Buy another set or two. They are dirt cheap. Look for the softest ones you could find. The soft ones tend to be the most flexible/streatchable. They really help to bring the noise down.
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#27
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I need to find some larger ones. I bought two extra sets but they are all the same brand and same specs. I had a good idea poor execution :-)
It's on hold for now, one is in, no obvious change. I didn't have a solder so it is nicely crimped until I can procure more bits to tinker. Currently looks OEM, which I am calling a victory, for now. |
#28
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Adam.......Nice step by step walk through of the fan installation.
__________________
Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#29
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If you switch to KT120's, you "might" be able to run fanless, as they seem to run much cooler than the 6550s. My listening room used to get quite warm after several hours when I had the 6550's installed, but now on a cold night I have to open the vents so the furnace can warm the room.
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#30
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Bobvin,
That is great news! I am planning a switch midcycle. I do recognize a slight reduction in noise output with the one "ultra quiet" fan. Since the new fan is a direct match to the Nexus fans that came installed from ARC, I am going to install the other (similar to Elberoth's process" and add a low noise attenuator when the KT-120's go in. So far, so good - I'll put up some pics when complete. Thanks for all the help and guidance - Sincerely, Mike |
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