#81
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1. I believe you are saying that the MC275 design causes the speaker cones move in as opposed to out - is this correct? If so, should phase on the REL be set to 180 or 0? 2.Based on the MC275 not having a balanced output, should I be connecting the black wire of each REL to the negative speaker post instead of grounding it to the chassis or does it matter either way? Thanks again. Last edited by Mac6; 12-13-2017 at 11:34 AM. |
#82
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1. The speaker cone moves both in and out as the amplifier signal can move both forwards and backwards. 2. I do not know. Sorry. |
#83
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Given that the outputs are floating, I'll need to re-think what I said in an earlier post and also look for more recent schematics of a 275 to see if McIntosh changed anything in the output circuit. Bottom line, REL has not adequately planned for connecting to the speaker outputs of different types of amplifiers, so people are having trouble. Ron Cornelius of McIntosh has stated in other forums that McIntosh owners should use the high level inputs when connecting REL subs.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v Last edited by W9TR; 12-14-2017 at 01:42 PM. |
#84
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I cannot understand why and how the speaker level connection is supposed to work. It is simply a much higher distortion way to go versus line level- makes no sense. The only possible part of it that makes any sense is that the timing could potentially be better, as the signal has already run through the amp for both the main speakers and the sub. The part about matching the tonal character of the main speakers is just simply adding the same distortion and coloration that the main speakers get - a better way to me would be to eliminate as much distortion as possible going to the sub - and this would be line level. Either way - running a sub and main speakers "full range" and trying to "blend " them is usually very tricky at best. Generally better to use a proper crossover between the sub and mains.
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#85
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I am using the Hi Level input into the RELs with the Neutrik connector and connecting just the red wire from each REL to each of the (+) speaker terminals on the amp. The yellow wires are floating and taped. An alternate would be to combine the red and yellow on the (+) terminals. Either way will work with the combined having more gain. I find the one wire method to sound really good so I am leaving it that way (for now!). Since the output of the amp is not balanced, the black can either be hooked up to the (-) of each speaker terminal or float according to REL. I am going with the float for now. The REL support people were very generous with their time - really good service. I am enjoying the sound of two RELs with this amp. Great sound all around. Last edited by Mac6; 12-14-2017 at 05:27 PM. |
#86
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Proper way to hook up a REL Sub
Did REL or McIntosh dissuade you from using either of the 2 additional C2300 outputs to feed the sub Low Level RCA inputs? I can’t for the life of me understand why this wouldn’t be the best connection method, while allowing on/off control to the sub.
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#87
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My understanding from REL is that the use of the powered output from the amplifier allows for better tonal matching between the subs and speakers. The ultra high impedance of the input on the sub presents virtually no load to the amplifier, it will not alter the sound of the main speakers, does not require a high pass filter and is simpler in implementation. |
#88
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I use the Hi level based on very good experience with my prior REl subwoofer. It sounds really good this way - blends in perfectly after dialed in. Give it a try if you can - see what you think.
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#89
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If anyone is still following this...i'm about to get an REL T9 to connect to my MC402 - which I believe is fully balanced. Anyone else have this setup? Can you confirm that the red and yellow wires connect to the right and left positive speaker outputs and the black wire just floats, connected to nothing? thanks
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McIntosh MC402, C2500, MC7061, MX121 and MVP861. VPI Prime Scout TT. Sonus Faber Sonetto Vs, Sonus Faber Center I, Two REL T/9i subs. Wharfedale 11.2 surrounds. Lake house: Beomaster 5500, Beogram 5500 CD, Beocord 5500 and U-Turn Orbit Plus TT. Wharfedale 225 speakers |
#90
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https://www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=42358 Yes, the way you stated above is the way it's recommended from REL, verified with their tech support folks.....the rub here was that there was some incompatibility between the 402 and this hookup method....read through this. I always had to use the RCA connection when I had my RELs and the 402 due to lack of output. Read through it and report back when you get your REL. - Buck
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Library: Speakers: Avalon Acoustics Isis, Subwoofers: (2) REL Acoustics 212SE Amplification: D’agostino Momentum preamplifier, D’agostino S250 stereo amplifier Digital: dCS Rossini CD/SACD transport, dCS Rossini DAC/streamer/master clock. Analog: Brinkmann Taurus table, Lyra Etna Lambda, Audio Research Ref. Phono 3 |
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