Matching Stain Color of Stradivaris?

[Grasshopper]

Yes!!!

Big mustache is a plus!

One more thought-

Definitely also play with your final topcoat. Some poly product labeled “clear” brings a slightly yellow/brown tinge to it. Or a nice Beeswax can offer a slightly darker hint along with being a final protective coat.

Chances are, you can have a hint of brown in your topcoat and not have to mess with the stain color at all-

Fun stuff!!!

[PHC1]

Sorry, couldn't resist... That mustache truly deserves the song https://youtu.be/eYaftoxf31M

[Grasshopper]

Originally Posted by Masterlu

Craig... I think you’re there. Once you get some hi-gloss poly on it.

+1

Just saw this reply!!!!

Listen to the MasterLu!!!

[crwilli]

Originally Posted by Grasshopper

Looks good.

You may also experiment with how you prep the receiving wood as well to see if you can get the color you want.

How you sand the wood (more coarse typically helps to go darker), misting water (water popping) to have the grain lift up so the stain penetrates deeper, leaving the stain on longer before wiping, adding a quick second application and varying your wood species receiving the stain will all vary how deep the color turns.

Another fun experiment is to take white vinegar in a jar, and cut up steel wool and throw it in the jar. This creates a chemical reaction if left overnight- al the way up to weeks and dissolves the steel wool. When you brush this on the wood it ages it and will darken it up (bringing more brown depending on the species) before you stain. If you do this, I’d limit the amount of time you leave the steel wool in as you just want a “touch”.

Some people mix tea leaves and water and lay that down before doing the vinegar and the wool (but never together) as the tannins of the tea trigger reactions in the tannins of the wood.

All really cool things that can absolutely change the character of the base wood to give you pretty dramatic variations in final color.

I did treat the wood with a MinWax pre-stain. It raised the wood up but I sanded before I stained.

I just sanded down the thin layer of varnish on it and hit the orange layer with a thin layer of a chestnut stain. Wiped on, wiped off. I think it helps. I also added a black edge and a horizontal line a’la the Strads. There is no varnish on this and the black lines are not sharp but I think this is close enough for my goals.

[Grasshopper]

Originally Posted by crwilli

I did treat the wood with a MinWax pre-stain. It raised the wood up but I sanded before I stained.

I just sanded down the thin layer of varnish on it and hit the orange layer with a thin layer of a chestnut stain. Wiped on, wiped off. I think it helps. I also added a black edge and a horizontal line a’la the Strads. There is no varnish on this and the black lines are not sharp but I think this is close enough for my goals.

Awesome!

I’d say with some high gloss poly on your final product and you’d be pretty darn close.

Goos work!!!

[Cohibaman]

Craig,

With a bit more practice, you could work for SF!

Nicely done.

[crwilli]

Ha, nope. To get their high gloss finish is not trivial. Best if sprayed on with special equipment and good technique - none of which I have. I am stuck with brushing it on, sanding when dry, brushing it on, sanding when dry, brushing it on , etc...

[Still-One]

You have the grain running in opposite directions in the photo. It might actually be closer when the are the same.

[Stahle]

Do Boos block cutting boards not come from the factory pretreated with their Mystery Oil? I ask because I think if they did, it would make staining and finishing problematic. I have two of their end grain butcher blocks and they both arrived pretreated with the Mystery Oil which is oily to the touch. Just curious. BTW, your stained cutting boards are looking great!

[crwilli]

You are correct Jim. In the second picture, the grain is opposite but that is how I intend to make it. Black, Stain, Black, Stain, Black. Which is the motif of the Strads.