Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaby
Since a fuse only breaks current when there is excessive current going through in order to prevent damage, I see no reason for you to want to put a different fuse in any Bryston product. Talk about snake oil, wow! Don't buy into it.  I fail to see how you can get better sound with a fuse.  |
Hi gbaby....I believe current is always flowing through a fuse. Like you said it’s only when it exceeds its value it would then pop.
I recommended you try one. Most of the fuse manufacturer’s have a 30 day return policy. If you don’t hear a difference then send it back. Nothing gained and nothing lost.
As for me the 5 fuses I’ve replaced so far has transformed my system. No placebo effect for me. My daughter sat with me for awhile last night and remarked how good the music was sounding and asked if I replaced anything. I told her just a few fuses and she said “yeah right” 
Just do a search and you’ll see I’m not the only one.
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Paul
Speakers: Von Schweikert VR-5 Anniversary MK II Front L/R, LCR-35 Center, VR-1 Rear L/R Sub: JL Audio F113
Amps: PS Audio BHK Signature 300 Mono, McIntosh MC207 Pre-Amp PS Audio BHK Signature and Gold Note PH-10 Phono Stage/PSU-10 Power Supply
Turntable: VPI HR-X 12.7 TONEARM (2) and SDS, Stillpoints LPI
Tape Deck Otari 5050B II2
Music Server: Aurender N100H
Cartridges: Ortofon Cadenza Black, Lyra Helikon Mono Digital Source: Oppo UDP-205 DAC: Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE
SSP: Marantz AV8801 Cables: Wireworld Electra 7 (P) Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7, Shunyata Delta NR (I) Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 (S) Wireworld Platinum Starlight 7 (USB)
AC Power Regeneration: PS Audio DirectStream P15 Power Plant and Shunyata Denali 6000s V2.
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