View Single Post
  #5  
Old 05-24-2019, 05:19 PM
jdandy's Avatar
jdandy jdandy is offline
Merry Christmas to all



 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 53,224
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebenz View Post
yea i figured it out. the shell has to come off to allow access to 4 screws holding the faceplate inside. However, getting the gels off of the glass, forget it. I pulled the gels behind the amp meters and they are blue still. So it's just the ones on the glass. Removing those old gels from the glass is going to be impossible without scratching the glass. I'm going to overlay the new ones and see how that looks

So as I'm doing all of this I'm sitting here thinking, MC402, MC312? LOL. This amp obviously needs new gels and I will do that but, I'm still wanting a more modern amp.
Chris.......Find yourself a MC452, either new or clean pre-owned. You'll thank me later. .


__________________
Dan



STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A
Reply With Quote