Have your carpenter build some panels to hang on the walls. Use basic concepts of LEDE (live end dead end) and RFZ ((reflection free zone). Diffusion on the rear wall behind your head. Absorption on the front and side walls at the first reflection point. Don't get the room too dead. Depends on your speakers, the better the on and off axis response matches, the less you need to treat.
Using a frame makes it easier to fabric wrap and have nice square edges. You can then use the nice wood frame to attach your frame hanger/D hooks and just hang them on the wall with picture hangers.
Use Masonite for the backing, Guilford FR701 fabric.
Also, 2" is not great. 4" is much better. Best and most linear is 6" (but few rooms can handle losing a foot -6" panels on both sides of the room). Use a 1" x 4" for the 4" thick panel frame.
We paid an acoustician a lot of money to show us how to treat our rooms and make better panels.
If you use 2" of 701 on top of 2" of 703, you get two different densities and thus more linear absorption. 701 goes on the room side, 703 on the wall side. Don't put any glue on the 701 or 703.
701 is softer and fluffier and has a different frequency vs absorption curve than 703. For 6" panels (if your room can handle it), the bottom (or wall side layer) should be 2" of 705, a third density of material.
I have installed a lot of these panels in a lot of different rooms (control rooms, recording studios, mastering rooms, home theaters etc) and they work great and are much better than just 2" 703 or even 4" of just 703.
You can use Auralex to treat corners
https://www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/
These work well too:
http://www.soundseal.com/soundqualit...bsorbers.shtml