Quote:
Originally Posted by Nacho
Hi SCAudiophile.
Weeks ago i put again the standard Tad jumpers and had to remove them quickly. They are a big step back compared with my Siltech DC ones.
I'm really suprised how they can do show demos with the standard jumpers. They are miles away from the quality that these speakers need.
I know that they work best connected as you said on R1's, but on the CR1's, they work better from LF to HF. They are less eficience so they need more power on the bass.
One question i have is relating to the bass response on the R1's.
As you have refered to Cincy, your are interested on REL subs.
Do you feel that R1's lacks a bit of bass?
That question is important to me because i'm considering to upgrade to the R1's but adding subs could be a great approximation to the R1 results.
Regards.
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Good Morning!
That is an interesting tip on the direction of jumper(ing) the CR1s. I think I'll go back and try reversing my jumpers on the R1s just to make sure my initial listening impressions are still the correct ones (for the R1s) now that they are well over 400 hours and have really "come out".
There are a number of members here who have the CR1s and who also have them paired with one or 2 subwoofers; hopefully they will chime in. One gentleman and I were talking about this early on and he basically told me that he was able to get very close to what he remembering hearing in the R1s once he had 2 subs dialed in properly. Another told me it was close but not close enough to eradicate his desire to move to the R1s. The caveat being that you should get feedback directly from these guys as I'm paraphrasing much longer discussions I had with them and those conversations were at least 2 months or more ago.
Bass and the R1s: During breakin, the R1s bass went from impressive but more than a bit muddy to ultra-fast, accurate, very musical and very impressive particularly after I the 300 hour point of detailed break-in with sub-bass, bass and mid-bass heavy material. I am extremely happy with bass performance of the R1s in my room and if my tests and minimal skills with the software I pulled off the net for this purpose a long time ago are accurate, mine are going essentially flat to 21 Hz +/- 2db in-room. The transition from muddy to hyper-accurate during break-in is definitely explained by the stiffness and sheer size, weight and complexity of the bass driver's cones and motor structures; this was no surprise as I've been through the exact same transition with 5 other pairs of full range speakers and multiple subs over the years that had similar attributes in the bass driver design.
One special note on the R1 is that it has a rather nice (and cool!) horn-shapped port on the bottom front of the speaker. I love this aspect of the design and I'm sure it is partially responsible for delivering all those fantastic TAD bass drivers are capable of...
Depending upon musical tastes, 21-23 Hz is more than enough to cover 100% of the music many people listen too as there are not that many instruments that go deeper. The exception being pipe organ, synthesizer and a few other things that I love to listen to. I am considering a subwoofer only for the following situations;
- have a room mode at a small and discrete frequency band I'd like to balance out/remove
- I'd like to fill-in below 21 Hz down to 16 Hz (at least) as my prior speakers' sub-bass driver went flat in my room down to 16 Hz and rolled off very gradually below that; there are some notes form large pipe organ and synthesizer-involved prog-rock, techno, etc....that I'd like to hear that impactfully again without giving up the R1s as they are amazing speakers in 99% of the ways that I am looking for...I simply want to fill-in the extreme bottom-end of the frequency range
This may take a while to find the right musical, i.e. not home-theater/car audio "thumper" subwoofer. My memories of owning REL B1 Britannia and Studio III subs are fond ones and I'm looking for a 'high-pass' input capability similar to or exactly what REL provides. The new G25MkII looks ideal but there are ambiguities in the specs and I am still researching.
The absolute ideal subwoofer would be the Legacy Audio "GOLIATH" that is not often talked about (which is a tragedy as it is 'the' monster sub in the home audio world that won't set you back $30K-$50K; it goes down prodigiously and flat to 12 Hz (!!!) but requires a separate active EQ processor. I had to sell my prior setup due to WAF problems over complexity, all the extra cables, etc....While I'm sure that 1 sub strategically placed with a single power cord and low profile (high-pass) cable going to it is no problem, I'm also sure that bringing another processor, 2 power cords, and extra set of interconnects, etc....in here will not go over well.
The ultimate seems to be a REL G25MkII (-6db at 14 Hz) though there is something new in the wings from one manufacturer I was asked not to mention yet that works like a REL and is just as musical and impactful but that is in the final design stages.
Hope this helps clarify my potential add of a subwoofer for the R1s...