Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fastdriving
Maybe they can be limiting for some applications, but the P10 is really helping me because when I put a load on my circuit the voltage drops to around 111v. The P10 is working at 67% load to run my system and keep it at 120v. If I didn't plug my amp into the P10 it would be running at 111 to 114v!
Crappy 14ga wires on a shared circuit that is in a room that can't be rewired properly 
If I had a dedicated 20a breaker for my system, I'd probably have a Denali or something passive. |
I think having a dedicated 20A line is more cost efficient. I have a semi-finished basement with drop-ceiling, and have the electrician installing a 2nd electrical panel (90AMP). From that 2nd panel, I did the 20A wiring myself to the living room upstairs and connected it to an audio-grade outlet.
__________________
Amps: Mc611s; Bryston 9BST Speakers: B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, B&W SCMs, 2x REL Carbon Special + Analysis Plus REL SpeakOn cable; Pre-Amp: C2700; Processor: Marantz 8805A Sources: Aurender N20; PSA Directstream DAC; JVC RS2000; Stewart Screen Cabaret with StudioTek 130 G4; Oppo UDP-205; Power & Cables: Taralabs bi-wire; WW XLR Silver Eclipse 8; WW Silver Starlight 7 Coax; Denali 6000T, Shunyata Alpha, Delta and Venom.
|