Tom.......Thank you for the tips. Fortunately I have had some experience trouble shooting electronics. The last item I repaired was two bad caps in a Samsung power supply on a friend's 23" monitor that would not turn on. One cap was bulging at the top and the second one was leaking at the bottom. Two new caps brought the monitor back to life.
The two caps in question for me do not show signs of bulging tops, overheating, or leaking, but JL Audio's tech told me they are paper caps that tend to dry out internally, thus lowering capacitance and raising resistance with no external signs of failure. We will find out. I have a new ESR meter arriving Friday that can test caps in or out of circuit, so this should be a big help in zeroing in on the errant caps. My new caps shipped today, so hopefully by Friday I will have an idea if my attempt to do it myself will prove successful.
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Dan
STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A
Last edited by jdandy; 07-03-2018 at 09:36 PM.
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