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-   Inspire by Dennis Had (https://www.audioaficionado.org/forumdisplay.php?f=184)
-   -   Dennis Had Inspire Amps (https://www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=24170)

FloridaBoy 09-23-2018 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by decooney (Post 932766)
Agree on Tyson's speakers. Admired them when he posted them a while back thinking how it's not easy to integrate everything and once done success must sound really nice. A very interesting design and build for sure. Super cool :thumbsup:

re:
Tinnned wire, read this a while back, quote: "One drawback to copper speaker wire is that it tends to corrode and may eventually break at the corrosion point. Tinned speaker wire is wire that has had solder applied to it to prevent corrosion. Tinning has no impact on audio quality. Tinned speaker wire is used in marine applications due to its resistance to corrosion.".


I have tried tinned wire and did notice a change, but thought it was just the quality of the wire itself, not the tinning. If anything, found it to be a little bright with my systems and speakers, YMMV.

Did you give it time to settle in? It takes a while. I found it bright initially too.

Tyson, if you like the tinned copper speaker wire check out the Belden 8402 microphone wire IC's. :thumbsup:

decooney 09-23-2018 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FloridaBoy (Post 932778)
Did you give it time to settle in? It takes a while. I found it bright initially too.

Great question. And, yes, one time for over two years solid ran tin-over-copper on three different sets of speakers to validate. That's what drove me back to pure OFC for a while, then tried sliver-over-copper for the past year. It's my speakers too, the air motion electrostatic transformers are very revealing and I'd rather not pad down my x-over any more or loose some resolution. So, I play with interconnects and speaker wire (a lot again lately), and it's been fun to realize the differences.

This may sound silly, but IF I run my larger Cary amp or the smaller Inspire amp for a full day and let it really bake in, I can tolerate the results with tin-over-copper speaker cables more towards the 2nd half of the day. However, If I only run the tube amp(s) for say 60-90 minutes max, I actually prefer the full pure copper cables more. So, right there on edge finding that sweet spot in between. I could remove the Clarity caps in my crossovers and go with some Mundorf EVO Silver Golds non-oil or oil and fix it, but that would be too easy. Still playing with a different sets of nice copper cables a friend loaned me, and it seems to work well too :)

Tyson 09-23-2018 03:25 PM

Thanks everyone on the props for my speakers. I've been an audiophile for over 20 years and have a bunch of audiophile friends, plus I hit RMAF (Rocky Mountain Audio Fest) every year. I've heard a ton of really top flight gear. But when I heard the Super 7s 4 years ago, that was it for me - I'd finally heard "the sound" that I'd been chasing all these years. It took me a while to save up the $$ to buy a pair, but they've been worth every penny. The fact that they are fully open baffle and thus super easy to integrate into just about any room (and are particularly adept in "difficult" rooms), well that's just icing on the cake!

Re: cable, I used to spend a lot of $$ on different cables and wire, but at some point I realized I could DIY a pretty good cable and pretty good speaker wire myself. So I've been doing that for a while. I found that 3 things really impact the sound of a wire (for me) - type of metal, purity of the metal, and the dielectric. I always found silver and silver plated copper too bright, and generally like copper best. I hear an improvement in copper wire up to 99.99% pure, but not really anything beyond that. Oh, and the "Ohn Continuous Cast" does make a difference. For dielectric, air is best (like with cotton covered wire) but you run into problems with corrosion pretty fast. 2nd best is teflon. Which is a really, really roundabout way of saying that this is my favorite wire:

Tyson 09-23-2018 03:33 PM

Oh, and re: copper, I also find this holds true with capacitors too. I tried a bunch (a bunch!!!) of different caps, and I've finally come to the conclusion that copper foil caps are the way to go. Audyn, Jupiter, Dueland, all are pretty much on the same level. The dielectric matters somewhat, but less than simply going from a tin foil (or aluminum foil) material to a copper foil material.

Which, if you think about it makes a lot of sense. After all, we don't put tin foil speaker cables or aluminum interconnects in the signal path because we know that would sound bad. But for some reason we think that capacitors in the signal path that are made out of tin or aluminum are just fine (ie, almost all film/foil caps are made of aluminum or tin).

Anyway, that's a long, roundabout way of saying that the Jupiter Copper cap is by far my favorite cap. Every amp, preamp, DAC or speaker in my system gets all caps in the signal path replaced with Jupiters. The improvement is always substantial.

FloridaBoy 09-24-2018 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tyson (Post 932834)
Oh, and re: copper, I also find this holds true with capacitors too. I tried a bunch (a bunch!!!) of different caps, and I've finally come to the conclusion that copper foil caps are the way to go. Audyn, Jupiter, Dueland, all are pretty much on the same level. The dielectric matters somewhat, but less than simply going from a tin foil (or aluminum foil) material to a copper foil material.

Which, if you think about it makes a lot of sense. After all, we don't put tin foil speaker cables or aluminum interconnects in the signal path because we know that would sound bad. But for some reason we think that capacitors in the signal path that are made out of tin or aluminum are just fine (ie, almost all film/foil caps are made of aluminum or tin).

Anyway, that's a long, roundabout way of saying that the Jupiter Copper cap is by far my favorite cap. Every amp, preamp, DAC or speaker in my system gets every all caps in the signal path replaced with Jupiters. The improvement is always substantial.

I like copper too. FYI, I put the Jupiter copper foil in my LP27a and they melted.

I believe the choice of caps is also system/speaker dependent. I'm driving Klipsch and copper and PIO rule with them. We also hear differently. High frequency nasties give me the chalk on a blackboard feeling. I installed Duelund tin and copper bypass caps in my Inspire and like the result.

Formerly YB-2 09-24-2018 09:31 AM

Ran foil-in-oil caps in my older "Dennis amps" and then tried plastic caps. The plastic caps take forever (several hundred hours) to break-in, but sound better than foil-in-oil to my ears. The extension at both ends and 'quickness' and 'clarity' are better with high-end plastic. YMMV.

SCAudiophile 09-24-2018 09:36 AM

Tyson...intruguing and beautiful speakers!!!

FloridaBoy 09-24-2018 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Formerly YB-2 (Post 932969)
Ran foil-in-oil caps in my older "Dennis amps" and then tried plastic caps. The plastic caps take forever (several hundred hours) to break-in, but sound better than foil-in-oil to my ears. The extension at both ends and 'quickness' and 'clarity' are better with high-end plastic. YMMV.

Personal preference is a factor as well as the speakers etc. There are a lot of good caps out there. You have to experiment to find what works best in your rig.

BearCityUSA 09-24-2018 05:56 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 56507

Now I just need a rectifier with a top cap.

Analog Addict 09-24-2018 10:39 PM

Here ya go...
 
http://leedsradio.com/blog/wp-conten.../07/rca866.jpg


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