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-   -   Shunyata Power distributors vs. competition (https://www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=44404)

btn2803 11-20-2018 08:55 AM

Shunyata Power distributors vs. competition
 
Hi all,
Just bought 2 Delta NR PC from Ivan. Can’t wait to hook it up to my MC611s.

My next stop is a good power distributor and/or conditioner/regenerators (and more power cords!!). I have a dedicated 20A line and want to connect all of my gears into the power distributor / conditioner. I am looking at the Denali 6000T, PS Audio P20 and Bryston AVR2 BIT 20. I realize each has different and unique features, but I would like to hear your thoughts on advantages/strenghts and disadvantages/weaknesses (if any) of each, and what are your recommendation. My plan is to connect all of my gears into the power conditioner/regenerator and my aim is to protect my gears (spikes, voltage fluctuation etc..), and improve sound quality (Noise reduction, isolation, etc...).

Thanks!
Thanh

SCAudiophile 11-21-2018 09:30 AM

IMHO, skip the regenerators (I have had 3 and demo'ed many more), go straight to Shunyata TRITON v3 and TYPHON QR), you will wonder why you ever owned or contemplated anything else (my exact experience)!

btn2803 11-21-2018 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCAudiophile (Post 941365)
IMHO, skip the regenerators (I have had 3 and demo'ed many more), go straight to Shunyata TRITON v3 and TYPHON QR), you will wonder why you ever owned or contemplated anything else (my exact experience)!

Thanks. The Triton v3 may be out of my price range, but I will look into this further. My understanding (from reading feedback and/or magazines) that the Denali 6000T is better than the Triton v2 in term of performance.

From your experience, what are the incremental benefits of having the Typhon QR with the Triton v3? What Shunyata Power cord are you using on the Triton/Typhon?

I do see a recent post from Grant S. with a detailed review of the Typhon. Very interesting.

Thanks.

2fastdriving 11-21-2018 03:17 PM

Some of us have horrible power problems that require a regenerator to fix, in my case a passive conditioner is not a very good option.

In your case, since you have a dedicated 20A line, I would agree with Mark SCAudiophile that you would do well with a passive Shunyata conditioner.

The Lost Bears 11-21-2018 05:07 PM

Power regenerators can sometimes be limiting. I use to have a PS Audio P600 for my front end components. I now have a Shunyata Triton and am extremely pleased with it. I have heard the Triton 2 with the Typhoon is a little bit better than the Denali. But either way I don't think you can go wrong.

2fastdriving 11-21-2018 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Lost Bears (Post 941431)
Power regenerators can sometimes be limiting. I use to have a PS Audio P600 for my front end components. I now have a Shunyata Triton and am extremely pleased with it. I have heard the Triton 2 with the Typhoon is a little bit better than the Denali. But either way I don't think you can go wrong.

Maybe they can be limiting for some applications, but the P10 is really helping me because when I put a load on my circuit the voltage drops to around 111v. The P10 is working at 67% load to run my system and keep it at 120v. If I didn't plug my amp into the P10 it would be running at 111 to 114v!

Crappy 14ga wires on a shared circuit that is in a room that can't be rewired properly :tears:

If I had a dedicated 20a breaker for my system, I'd probably have a Denali or something passive.

The Lost Bears 11-21-2018 05:54 PM

I agree that it all depends on your situation. If you have terrible power a regenerator may be a better way to go. Of all the power conditioners I tried the Shunyata Triton is my favorite. The Furman Elite-20 PFi was the worst. It seemed to emphasize power problems.

btn2803 11-21-2018 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2fastdriving (Post 941434)
Maybe they can be limiting for some applications, but the P10 is really helping me because when I put a load on my circuit the voltage drops to around 111v. The P10 is working at 67% load to run my system and keep it at 120v. If I didn't plug my amp into the P10 it would be running at 111 to 114v!

Crappy 14ga wires on a shared circuit that is in a room that can't be rewired properly :tears:

If I had a dedicated 20a breaker for my system, I'd probably have a Denali or something passive.

I think having a dedicated 20A line is more cost efficient. I have a semi-finished basement with drop-ceiling, and have the electrician installing a 2nd electrical panel (90AMP). From that 2nd panel, I did the 20A wiring myself to the living room upstairs and connected it to an audio-grade outlet.

btn2803 11-21-2018 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCAudiophile (Post 941365)
IMHO, skip the regenerators (I have had 3 and demo'ed many more), go straight to Shunyata TRITON v3 and TYPHON QR), you will wonder why you ever owned or contemplated anything else (my exact experience)!

I was leaning toward the Denali 6000T with Alpha NR C19. However, I believe the bottom 2 inlets of the 6000T are HC and dedicated for high power amps. and the other top 4 inlets are more for source components. So, I can only plug in my MC611s to the bottom 2 inlets, and my 3 source components (oppo 205, Marantz surround processor, PS Audio DAC) to the other 3 inlets, leaving me with only 1 available inlet to add a source component. May be the Triton v3 with 8 HC inlets is a better choice in the long run. But the admission price is steep :sigh:

SCAudiophile 11-21-2018 10:35 PM

The 6000 is a hell of a unit. I use a SIGMA NR PC and umbilical...

More later..


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