New Classic 1
 

I just set up my new, to me, Classic 1. First time with a unipivot arm and I am having a bit of a challenge dialing in the VTF. My cartridge is a Dynavector XX-2 and the VTF should be about 2g. But even with the CW as far up towards the pivot point as it should go and the counter-intuitive weight moved forward it's barely measures 1g on my digital scale. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

http://www.audioaficionado.org/attac...1&d=1457131232

http://www.audioaficionado.org/attac...1&d=1457131232

http://www.audioaficionado.org/attac...1&d=1457131232

I sent my counterintuitive weight back since I had the same problem as you. You can just remove it. Nice looking table. I had the Classic 1 in walnut also.

Nice table, I demoed the Classic 1 in my system before deciding on the Classic 2 and then the Classic Signature.....also went with the same cartridge you did.....the Dynavector XX2 is magic with this setup. Have to tried measuring without the counter intuitive just to see what the scale measures? Also, did you test the scale with something before measuring......just want to make sure there's nothing wrong with you digital scale first. On the Classic tables, Harry W. (VPI harry) recommends dialing in at the top end of the recommended VTF....think 2.1 - 2.3. When I first setup the Classic 2 I was about 1.9 and it was way too bright....you could tell something was off. I had it re-calibrated to about 2.2g and everything was great.

- Buck

- Buck

I calibrated my digital scale and removed the CI weight, VTF now reads 2.4g. Thank you for the assistance. Second question, adjusting the azimuth the manual is rather vague. I think I know the ring it refers to but unsure how to make the adjustments. The two weights that stick out from the ring do not seem to unscrew.

I believe that on the Classic 1 the outrigger weights do not unscrew, I think that's only on the Classic 3/signature for fine adjustment. VPI provides the small metal rod which rests on the headshell so you can measure and make sure the distance to the platter on each side is exactly the same. You rotate the counterweight left and right in order to achieve this, but the trick is that rotating the counterweight will change your VTF unless you have extremely steady fingers, but I would count on it changing it to some degree, so you have to play with it and be patient until you get it right. Double checking you azimuth is easy if you have access to a Fozgometer, but if not, measuring and listening is your best tool. It's trial and error to get it right, but once you do, your center image should lock in place.

- Buck

I loosen the counterweight just loose enough to be able to rotate it and have it stay in that position. Place an old flat record on the platter, cue the tonearm over the center of the record, place the thin metal bar that comes with the TT in the groove on the headshell so half is on each side, lower the tonearm onto the record, use an index card and mark the height from the record to the metal bar, now check the other side of the metal bar to see if it is the same height, if not turn the counterweight slightly to make both sides the same height. You will need to make the counterweight snug so it stays where you put it. Now you need to repeat this procedure quite a few times to get it just right. I find when I twist the counterweight that I tend to move it in and out slightly which messes up the VTF so I need to make many fine adjustments to get it just right. The Soundsmith counterintuitive makes these adjustments much easier but if you can't move it forward enough like me, you can't use it. Sorry my description isn't that clear. Perhaps someone else can state the steps clearer. It is a PITA to do but it sounds great when you are done.

Buck posted while I was typing. His description is clearer than mine.

Buck and Paul did a great job describing the process which is a bit tedious. Since the standard VPI counterweight is offset (the hole is not centered) rotating it is how you effectively vary the azimuth setting. Once you make a change in its position and see the effect on the azimuth (by checking the height of both ends of the metal bar against an index card) you'll better grasp the concept. Remember that patience is a virtue, and you'll get it set properly after several iterations of making adjustments and rechecking the VTF.

Ha! Thanks....I thought your description was better! Combine our 2 and you're in business!

- Buck

What a great community this is. Thanks guys, I'll play with it tomorrow and keep the forum posted (not that anyone cares). 😄