Thanks pstrisik.

I own Oppo BDP-105, BDP-95, and DV-980H (listed as newest – oldest models). They all have variable output controlled via the remote control, and they all have the ability to support analog RCA outputs for 2.0 (stereo, with down-mix if needed) and 2.1 (stereo plus subwoofer) in addition to 5.1 and 7.1.

The older DV-980H plays CD, SACD, and DVD. The newer BDP-95 and BDP-105 additionally play Blu-ray (audio and video) discs and hi-res FLAC via USB connection to a hard drive, or DLNA network connection.

I use 2.0 or 2.1 analog RCA outputs from the Oppo units. All of the Oppo models have the ability via the audio set-up menu to set the l/r “main” speakers to as high as 10dB above default or “normal” (i.e., +10dB vs. 0dB). This +10dB option is available for both 2.0 (main l/r speakers “large”, subwoofer “off”) and 2.1 (main l/r speakers “small”, subwoofer “on”). This works great when directly connecting a power amp (i.e., no pre-amp) such as my Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO. With this configuration I realize adequate gain (volume level) for all recordings, including hi-res classical recordings. (I don’t know the Oppo’s output voltage range.)

The Oppo DV-980H, BDP-95, and BDP-105 all provide a RCA line-level connection for a powered subwoofer. All three of these Oppo units have “trim” settings (i.e., volume level) in the audio set-up menu for the subwoofer (which is handy for a sub that doesn’t have a remote volume control.) The BDP-95 and BDP-105 have a parameter to set the crossover frequency. The crossover frequency in the older DV-980H is fixed.

I have no affiliation with Oppo. I’m just a fan of using their players with my (mostly vintage) tube amps for playing digital recordings. (And several of my systems serve double duty for movies.) Oppo is expected to introduce a newer UHD compatible player late 2016 or early 2017. I’m hoping that Oppo continues to advance their support for high quality audio via analog outputs. (The BDP-105 is their current “audiophile grade” unit with premium DAC and analog circuitry.)

Bottom line, if you’re playing digital recordings (i.e., not LPs), with the Oppo units listed above there’s no need for a preamp unless you need tone controls. Given the Inspire amp’s acceptance of a wide range of tubes, I have found that the Inspire can be “voiced” to the speakers via tube rolling, and therefore tone controls aren’t needed unless a particular recording is out of balance. For recordings that require adjustments to tonal balance, in all of my systems I have the option of using an integrated amp (or preamp) that is equipped with tone controls. (For example, my Scott LK150 sounds too bright with my Klipsch RF-7 II for most recordings, and I therefore connect the LK150 via the my McIntosh MX110Z preamp and use its tone controls to attenuate the treble.)

Tekton Lore 2.0 here (8 Ohm, 98 dBs at 1 M /1 Watt). Plenty of volume in a small to medium room with the KT 88 Inspire SE amp, with or without preamp. For a higher headroom ceiling (more dynamics) add an Lp-27a Preamp or equivalent and 6L6 GC or KT88 tubes.

Etunes,

I have recently acquired a pair of JJ KT77s and a JJ 5AR4 rectifier on Dennis' recommendation. For about $55 you can get some real clarity and punch. I recently revisited the KT150s and IMHO they are not in the same league as the JJs at 4-5 times the price. Also a great sounding tube is a RCA 6v6gt blackplate. A pair of butt ugly tubes from Brent Jesse will run about $50. Anyway, what i am getting at is you might try a little rolling prior to a $$$ speaker investment.

Good luck and let us know how things are going.

Took possession of a new LP-27a last week that Dennis built for me. Had him put the DACT control in it as well as installing sub outputs topside.

I am absolutely astonished by the quality of the sound. It is the perfect companion to my KT88 SET. So effortless.

I had been driving the amp through a McIntosh C46, a Bryston BP26, and direct from my OPPO BD105. Only a few hours listening, but I just can't wait to try this pre with my other gear.

Being able to send a signal to a sub to take some of the LF burden off of the KT88SET makes a world of difference.

Congratulations! He wasn't yet making the LP-27a when I bought my LP-2. It might have been what I went for if it was available at the time.

Does the sub take LF from the amp? That would mean he designed the pre with some kind of filtering so low frequencies didn't go to the main outputs. Usually outputs are split signals - all the same. My LP-2 has two outputs. I have the signal going to multiple amps by splitting after the pre outputs. My KT-150 is relieved of low frequencies since one output of the LP-2 goes through an active crossover.

Robert_kc was also talking about the capabilities of the BDP105 with regard to sub outputs and control. Another route to play with. Nice to have options.

x3workshop,

I’m a recent convert to subwoofers, so sorry if I’m beating this to death, or stating the obvious. :)

In case you haven’t already experimented with this, here’s how to configure the Oppo BDP-105 universal player for 2.1, sending high freqs to the main speakers and low freqs to the subwoofer:

In this configuration the subwoofer is connected directly to the Oppo BDP-105.

Using the Oppo BDP-105 Dedicated Stereo Outputs in a 2.1 Configuration

In order to utilize the dedicated stereo outputs in a 2.1 configuration with bass management, you will need to change the Stereo Signal setting under the Setup Menu / Audio Processing to Front Left/Right. This will allow the Speaker Configuration section of the Audio Processing menu to apply to the dedicated stereo outputs:

1. Go to the Setup Menu and select Audio Processing.
2. Select Stereo Signal and change it to Front Left/Right.
3. Go to Speaker Configuration.
4. Set the Downmix Mode to Stereo.
5. Set each of the connected speakers to Small and set the subwoofer to On.
6. Exit Speaker Configuration and set the Crossover setting to whatever your preference is.

When the player is configured as detailed above, audio from a source that does not have a dedicated .1 or LFE track will be directed to the subwoofer based on the crossover frequency you select.

(FWIW, this was confusing to me the first time I set it, because the term “downmix” is used in different settings. For 2.0 (i.e., no subwoofer) the settings for stereo are Downmix: Stereo, Speaker Settings: Large, Stereo Signal: Down-mixed stereo.)

Bottom line, the Oppo’s 2.1 “bass management” function can offload low frequencies from the Inspire SEP amp and main speakers – meaning they’re less likely to be overloaded during loud passages. Without a crossover somewhere before your Inspire SEP amp, you’ll be sending all freqs to the Inspire amp and main speakers. As pstrisik said, the $64k question is whether or not Dennis built a crossover function into the LP-27a, or if all freqs go to both outputs from the LP-27A (i.e., a “double bass” configuration)?

I’d be curious how audio quality compares when your LP-27A is inserted into the chain, vs. with your BDP-105 connected directly to the subwoofer and Inspire SEP amp as described above (you may need to set the Oppo's Front l/r speaker trim to +10dB in order to achieve adequate gain – and then adjust the subwoofer trim setting as needed).

I have to believe that a quick look under the hood would tell if said lp27a sub outputs are anything other than direct wired to the other outputs. Interesting to know.

On another preamp note, I have had the retro fit LP-3a upgrade to my early LP-2 preamp. I was unable to do apples to apples comparison with the time delay for the mod and I had to shoehorn in another preamp (Cary SLP-50) during the week I was without the Inspire so my opinions are based on audio memory. That being said, I am vary impressed with the new circuit. The best I can describe the difference is that new circuit compliments his SEP design more thoroughly than my previous model. The Life that I heard in Dennis' listening room while comparing a couple SEP models to his SET 45 amp is even more pronounced than before. There is more gain with the LP-3a but more importantly there is more usable volume. More information is passed through at lower volumes. It takes less to get a more complete sound. All the transparency that DH's preamps are known for with ... well more. I have no regrets! Please note, YMMV in that my chassis has 9 pin sockets and his new production LP-3a uses octals with 6S_7s. I am currently running the same tubes as before the conversion, 6H1Ns up from with a 6CG7 in back. Dennis told me to try 6CG7s all around after a time. I will soon along with some other combos.

P.s. I asked Dennis what to call this one of a kind unit. He said LP-2 Jabobber. I had him spell it because I was not sure exactly what he said. He is a funny guy.

Sounds like it worked out great! Congrats on the good risk! More detail at lower volumes is a valuable characteristic. I tend to float around the level that really sounds good to it feeling a bit too loud. With yours, it sounds like I would float a few decibels lower. A different kind of headroom is what you gain I guess!

Thanks everyone for your answers , thoughts and recommendations . My speakers are the Devore Fidelity Gibbon X. 91db into 8ohms . Per Devore never dip below 7 so easy to drive. Ive decided to stick with my SS amp for now which is the DarTZeel stereo amp. Just a better fit for now.
A great sounding product made by a great guy at very reasonable prices. What's not to love,not to mention a tube rollers paradise.

Robert,

I have used the 2.1 function on my Oppo, but it isn't part of my Inspire set up. I'm using a Schiit Bifrost Multibit DAC to feed the LP-27a with great results.

The Sub outputs that Dennis installed are simply additional outputs that do not employ any xover/bypass filters. I use a passive, 18db/octave high pass to send only signals above 100hz to my Inspire SET amp and use the subwoofer's (Dynamo 700) internal xover for low frequency duty.

This set up works very well, although I intend to experiment with other solutions in the future.