JL Audio guts!
 

Last week was interesting for me. My 2yr old JL F113v2 sub started behaving strangely. The volume would rise and fall randomly while playing music. At times it would go completely quite. Trouble shooting with JL Audio’s technical department points to a faulty amp. So I undertook the task of removing the “Back-Amp Plate” instead of shipping the whole sub. For those who want to see the guts of a JL Audio Sub here it is:-

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sircharles.......My JL Audio f113 quit working about 2 months ago. When I press the power button nothing happens. I loath the idea of repacking this 134 lb. monster and shipping it back to the factory. Seeing your post and photos makes me think this may be a better way to go, just return the amp and the processor if necessary. I had been thinking about pulling the back off the sub but haven't done it yet. Seeing your photos is just the encouragement I needed. Is there a fuse inside between the IEC power socket and the power supply board?

The thought of shipping the entire unit is daunting. The hardest part is trying not to scratch the unit while disconnecting the wires to set the amp plate free. The Am-plate weighs in at about 43 pounds! I removed it with the sub woofer laying face down on a soft surface as shown in the pics. Sorry, I didn't check for any fuses and the amp plate shipped out today. The folks at JL audio should be able to help. Feel free to contact me if you need any assistance or get stuck.

How’d you get the back plate off? My understanding is there’s some type of goo used to insulate and stop rattling or something. I’ve had two F113s die this way with the same part on the amp panel vibe bad. Two out of three subs is not a good ratio in my opinion but I did love the subs when they were working.
I ended up seeking two subs and have one left that is dead in the room the past few years due to the same issue and I can’t lift or deal with the weight to ship either so it sits DOA.

I’d be very interested how you pryed the panel off.

Thx

I am not sure about the F113 but in the v2. Place the sub face down. Remove all the “perimeter” screws. Do not remove the screws that are not on the “outer” perimeter of the back plate amp. On the F113v2, I removed 16 screws in total. Once all screws are removed get two smooth locking pliers/vice grips. Grip one of the heat sinks on opposite sides. Use a cloth between the teeth and the sinks to prevent scratches on the heat sinks. Gently use the grips to lift the amp plate straight up. Be careful not to over lift. Once loose/lifted use a wedge to keep it up ( something that will not damage the finish. Locate and disconnect the wires to free the amp plate. Lift up again with the grips and it should come right out. Hope this helps.

For me the hardest part was making sure I didn’t scratch the finish. Take your time and having a friend around will make things a lot easier. Especially when locating the wires to disconnect and free the amp plate.

Cheers!

I had one JL Audio sub go kaput during a thunderstorm. I did ship it to JL and had it repaired. But I agree that it is a pain to move/ship. Hope to never have to do that again!

Thx sircharles.
Yup the V1 has the same 16 screws on the back plate. Looks like a two person job for me to do with my disability.
I agree this is tons easier though than trying to pack up the whole sub.

The back plate weighs in at over 40 pounds on the v2. With the plate removed I found it a lot easier to carry/move the sub around.