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-   -   Dennis Had Inspire Amps (https://www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=24170)

Aercool 06-27-2015 12:07 AM

I tried driving something in that same 86 dB/m range before my Zu Omens arrived, and it definitely ran out of steam - particularly in the bass range. Your experience may vary - so please report back!

FloridaBoy 06-29-2015 04:39 PM

Inspire KT88 SE triode wired
 
New guy here. I just ordered an Inspire KT88SE triode strapped. It will have less power than the ultra linear version. Will post more after it arrives.

I have been a tube-a-holic for years and I excited about this amp. :D

pstrisik 06-29-2015 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FloridaBoy (Post 710636)
New guy here. I just ordered an Inspire KT88SE triode strapped. It will have less power than the ultra linear version. Will post more after it arrives.

I have been a tube-a-holic for years and I excited about this amp. :D

Welcome FloridaBoy! Interesting variation. What does "triode strapped" mean? And how much power with which tubes? It's named after a pentode tube, so confusing. :scratch2:

My KT-150 runs at 10 - 12 watts when running KT-88's depending on rectifier.

FloridaBoy 06-29-2015 07:58 PM

The amp I am getting is single ended but wired in triode. It will produce less power but the sonics are, IMHO, seductive. Most of the amps Dennis has produced are single ended but are ultra linear. More power is produced with the ultra linear iteration. My speakers are 99db so I opted for triode. I have seen one Inspire that had a switch to toggle back and forth between the two.

Masterlu 06-29-2015 08:09 PM

FloridaBoy... Welcome to AA! :wave:

pstrisik 06-29-2015 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FloridaBoy (Post 710678)
The amp I am getting is single ended but wired in triode. It will produce less power but the sonics are, IMHO, seductive. Most of the amps Dennis has produced are single ended but are ultra linear. More power is produced with the ultra linear iteration. My speakers are 99db so I opted for triode. I have seen one Inspire that had a switch to toggle back and forth between the two.

Still interesting! Makes me think about upgrade possibilities that might be possible for my amp. Switch between triode and UL, hmmm.

Now you've done it! :lala:

.

Beatlebum 06-30-2015 09:56 AM

Should receive my IFA-1 today via FedEx.:banana:

Dennis mentioned in our correspondence that he's made some circuit upgrades on my particular amp. Not sure what they are but he was very pleased with the results.

I'll report back when I get it installed in my system.

FloridaBoy 06-30-2015 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pstrisik (Post 624957)
Well, I keep switching back and forth using a Decware, good quality switch for level matched comparison, trying to find a reason to keep the SLP-05. The LP-2 just seems to edge it out in musicality and smoothness. I've not wanted to believe this since the SLP-05 cost me five times what I paid for the LP-2. It should sound better. It seems that every time I move towards simpler designs, I am rewarded. From Conrad-Johnson push-pull to the single ended Inspire KT150, the three way AR2ax' to the single driver, crossoverless Omegas, and the SLP-05 to the LP-2.

The :music: is what matters. Low power tube amps and efficient speakers sound the best to me too.

FloridaBoy 06-30-2015 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aercool (Post 625158)
Dang it. You're going to make me buy a Sophia mesh plate 274B - just when I thought the holy grail was the 60's vintage Mullard 5AR4 and I was *done* with rectifiers...:music:

I popped the KT-150's back in tonight. I'll see if they have the same effect as the 6V6GT's I've been listening to for months.

Using the Mullard and a Tele E88CC driver.

The metal base Mullard 5AR4 is regarded as the best and they are not cheap.
However, the black base double D getter 5AR4 from the same era is a sonic twin and a lot cheaper. I have both and will post pic when I figure out how.

Beatlebum 06-30-2015 09:02 PM

Okay so I received the IFA-1 today and everything arrived in fine order thanks to Dennis' great packing.

The Bryston Mini T's don't seem to be a problem for my particular IFA-1, which I believe is about 12 wpc and KT88 based. I had Dennis install a Blue Velvet Alps stereo potentiometer and I'm listening at my desired level with the knob at about 2:00.

More break-in required for sure but so far Antonio Forcione's "Tears of Joy" is sounding magnificent! Great bass (a bit looser than my Hegel 160's), full and deep, beautiful extended highs and of course, that gorgeous midrange that only tubes can do.

I do have a low oscillating hum that I can't seem to get rid of. It is not affected by the volume control, so any helpful suggestions are welcome here. I've tried both shielded and unshielded power cords on the amp, but no difference.

I am ecstatic at the performance I'm hearing right now!

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Justlisten2 (Post 634057)
Man, I was just looking at Tube Depot, they are selling XF-2's (double halo) for $200 per tube!!
I guess that is still cheap compared to the $500/tube they are asking for Phillips Miniwatt metal base EL34's!!
Tube prices are getting crazy!! $500 for one EL34 tube???!!! :tears:

Those tubes are priced on rarity. New production power tube are the equal to and often better than NOS. There are some exceptions, like Pope 6V6's.

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pstrisik (Post 634108)
Supply and demand. I think tube audio is gaining in popularity and they just aren't making any NOS tubes these days! :scratch2:

We would not have the selection of new production tubes available today without the guitar guys. They use more tubes than us audio types.

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richamor (Post 640888)
My LSA Statement monitors are 89db at 6 ohms and are plenty loud. No stress on the amp at all.

As I understand it, the sensitivity is an indication of how loud a speaker will play at given power. It's the low impedance that will kill a lot of amps and drive them into clipping. I watched Dennis short out his speaker leads with no damage. I did that on my ST70 and produced a nice big spark.

If the impedance of the speaker is flat it should be easy to drive with a low power amp.

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aercool (Post 643119)
I *really* like mine. They seem to go an octave lower in bass than with the 6V6GT, any Chinese/Russian KT-xx I've tried, 6V6G's (least bass of all, probably, but super sweet mids).

They're tough to find in good condition matching pairs where the getters don't look like a dried up water spot. Finding shiny thick mirror-clear getters on these big old tubes is a challenge. The bigger the tube the more difficult to seal and prevent air from getting in, at least that's my guess. I offered $300 for a pair on eBay (big gamble) for a pair he'd offered a BuyItNow at $399. I was a little surprised he came down that much. Mine are branded as GE, which might have a little less cache than a Type I (no holes in the plate) branded as TungSol, but it's essentially the same tube otherwise. Mine are probably 70's vintage. What I liked was that they were matching cosmetically and those minimalistic tests that sellers offer. How would we challenge the results? I doubt there's a tube tester within 100 miles of me! Peter could probably beat that diameter by a wide margin! So, no buyer's remorse for me. They have a powerful sound, deep rich bass that just lays on the ground like fog. My Zu Omens are rated for 35-25kHz frequency range, fwiw.

Got a new 1964 Amperex 6DJ8 in the mail today - in it goes to listen to Bill Frisell's new release tonight which also happened to come in the mail today.

I've had those 70's 3 hole 6550's too. Nice tubes and Kevin Deal thinks they are the best vintage. *I* wouldn't pay the premium for the late 50's black plates.

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simonatsea (Post 645367)
So far the gold lion GZ34 and my full music 6SL7 sound the best with my winged C EL34. It is more of a fun sound to me, lots of drive, loads of bass, and the 6SL7 to give it a little HIFI accuracy. Cant vouch whats best for the tubes longevity however

I've not used the GL GZ34. Have you compared it to a Mullard? It's great to have some new production options.

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pstrisik (Post 680123)
Dennis says it is the best amp he's ever heard!

I didn't get the price though, did you?

I'm happy with my KT-150, but this is intriguing. Googling Type 45 tubes says it is a triode, so this amp may be a true SET.

The 45 amp is a true SET amp. I have had 300B amps and a Korneff 45. *I* preferred the 45. I was considering the Inspire 45 but did not want to get back into the $400+ a pair for tubes. He has one on the bay recently and it was $2595 with EML mesh plate 45's that cost $629 a pair. If you have speakers that can sing with 2 watts, IMHO, a well executed 45 amp is the bomb. :music:

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Loop4fun (Post 680174)
Not sure he's set on the pricing, so I'd hate to put it here... But I did order one. :) In copper, to match my 6v6.

He said it's a true set and I would guess about two watts output. (I didn't ask!) My speakers are 16ohm/100db and will easily work.

What speakers are you driving?

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pstrisik (Post 681577)
Glad you are liking them. I've never tried Hytrons. Have tried a number of other 6v6s. If you like them, time to give Popes a try! They're not too expensive and won't stay available forever I'm sure. I also have liked NOS Sylvanias and National Union.

An RCA5Y3GT is what I'm using for the rectifier also. My driver is different tube type though.

I have a 6V6 Decware Mini Torii and the Pope's are excellent. The inexpensive Russian black glass 6V6's are very good too but they need a lot of hours. The Tung Sol reissue 6V6 is an excellent tube too.

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slefley (Post 685897)
Yes I have the same amp in Copper and am using a Sophia 6SL7 driver. I added the Mullard 5AR4 with the Pope's and now the two are very close. The 6V6 comes out on top for transparency while the KT150 have more body/warmth. Honestly I can live with either, and I'm sure in a different system the results could be different.

How many hours did you have on the KT150's?

pstrisik 07-01-2015 09:40 AM

Is the IFA-1 an integrated?

Do you have cable coming in to your system anywhere? I had to add a noise blocker on mine, but it cured it.

Beatlebum 07-01-2015 10:18 AM

My IFA-1 has an Alps Blue Velvet stereo potentiometer (volume control) built-in but it's technically not an integrated.

No cable TV connections in my 2 channel system.

Which noise blocker worked for you?

pstrisik 07-01-2015 10:35 AM

The blocker is a Jensen VRD-1FF "ISO-MAX". Specific for the 75ohm incoming cable connection. I've seen many reports that this has been 100% effective for this particular problem with cable interference.

I don't know if it is possible that a cable box on the same AC circuit could cause the hum even if not connected to the 2-channel system.

Brainstorming......... You said you tried shielded and unshielded power cords. Do you mean with and without ground or literally the shielding? Sometimes a "ground lift" can fix ground loop hums. Also by grounding components to each other directly (like the amp to your source or other combos). Both are easy to test. The first with a three to two conductor power adaptor ($2); the second with a piece of wire from one chassis to another - you can just touch without having to attach until you find the problem.

Thanks for the clarification on the attenuator. I was a bit confused! From looking at his last IFA-1 ebay sale, it seems you can run the same tubes as us SEP folks. So many possibilities that it's dangerous to the wallet when you mix in perfectionism! It also says 7+ watts with KT-88's. If triode mode reduces power, that makes sense since my SEP runs about 12 wpc with the bigger tubes.

Beatlebum 07-01-2015 12:16 PM

Thanks Pete for the brainstorming. I will do some troubleshooting tonite after work.

Actually Dennis just called me on my cell to check on things and make sure I am pleased. He seems like a great guy and it has been a pleasure dealing with him.

BTW, the IFA-1 sounds incredible if I didn't mention that already. My Bryston Mini T's are presenting no problem but then I don't listen at loud levels anyway.

FloridaBoy 07-01-2015 04:58 PM

Beatle, would you please post a pic of your amp? Just curious.

pstrisik 07-01-2015 06:33 PM

FloridaBoy.... he did post the photos from Dennis a page or two back.

My apologies both to FloridaBoy and Beatlebum - I conflated your amps as you both started posting about them at the same time and I wasn't paying close enough attention. So a comment or two that I've made was about the "other" amp and might have been confusing.

FB - I see you've replied to a number of old posts, some quoting me. I'll take a look and reply where appropriate later today. Often, things change, particularly when it comes to favored tubes!

pstrisik 07-01-2015 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beatlebum (Post 711016)
Thanks Pete for the brainstorming. I will do some troubleshooting tonite after work.

Actually Dennis just called me on my cell to check on things and make sure I am pleased. He seems like a great guy and it has been a pleasure dealing with him.

BTW, the IFA-1 sounds incredible if I didn't mention that already. My Bryston Mini T's are presenting no problem but then I don't listen at loud levels anyway.

I'm probably putting some stuff out there that is obvious, but just in case.....

Is the hum from one speaker or both? If one, swap power tubes, reverse left & right speaker cables, etc., to see if you can narrow down what is at fault. If from both speakers, try a different rectifier and driver just to make sure one of them isn't acting up.

FloridaBoy 07-02-2015 06:02 AM

Finished amp
 
Dennis finished the amp and will ship it on Monday. It is single ended and triode wired. No switch to go ultra linear but that could be done. 6SN7/6SL7 driver, 5Z3 rectifier...the daddy of the 5U4G, KT88's. The 5Z3 has different pins and draws 3 amps. I have an adapter to enable the use of other rectifiers. I have a pair of KT150's on the way. In triode they are reported to have the midrange of a KT88 with the drive of a KT120. He said he will be building a few more of these soon.



[IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/4t6cgl.jpg[/IMG]

FloridaBoy 07-02-2015 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slefley (Post 685475)
I just finished a little tube comparison in my 6L6 amp between the Tung-Sol 6L6, Pope 6V6 and Tung-Sol KT150. In my system and with my preferences for transparency, soundstage and midrange tone I prefer the KT150. It fell in between the 6L6 (not quite as transparent as I like) and the 6V6 (very transparent but a little 'bright' for my tastes). I used a 274b solid plate for this comparison, but later swapped in a Mullard 5AR4 which added just a touch of warmth.

There is a Russian 6L6 equivalent, 6p3s-e, that is inexpensive and well regarded. They are more transparent than the TS big bottle you decide to try them, get them from a seller that tests them properly. I have not heard the KT150 yet....but will soon.

The Pope 6V6's should not sound bright. What driver tube are you using?

FloridaBoy 07-02-2015 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pstrisik (Post 711097)
FloridaBoy.... he did post the photos from Dennis a page or two back.

My apologies both to FloridaBoy and Beatlebum - I conflated your amps as you both started posting about them at the same time and I wasn't paying close enough attention. So a comment or two that I've made was about the "other" amp and might have been confusing.

FB - I see you've replied to a number of old posts, some quoting me. I'll take a look and reply where appropriate later today. Often, things change, particularly when it comes to favored tubes!

I wanted to get enough posts to get past moderator approval. :thumbsup:

nhparrot 07-02-2015 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beatlebum (Post 710886)

I do have a low oscillating hum that I can't seem to get rid of. It is not affected by the volume control, so any helpful suggestions are welcome here. I've tried both shielded and unshielded power cords on the amp, but no difference.

Beatlebum, is the hum you hear a low hum through your speakers when there is no input to your amp?

Beatlebum 07-03-2015 05:42 AM

Yes that is the case!

nhparrot 07-03-2015 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beatlebum (Post 711406)
Yes that is the case!

I have the same with my 6L6 Fire Bottle.

Beatlebum 07-03-2015 07:35 AM

I have had several tube amps in the past (807 based, KT88 based, EL34 based) and never had a problem with a loud hum in my systems so hope it's something electrical/mechanical, like a resistor, that's got a problem. The amp sounds amazing :yes: and I'm looking forward to getting it back.

nhparrot 07-03-2015 08:22 AM

Is Dennis taking care of the hum issue?

Beatlebum 07-03-2015 09:17 AM

Yes! I shipped the amp back to him yesterday. He should receive it on Monday or Tuesday and he said he would promptly address the issue. Great guy!

nhparrot 07-03-2015 10:20 AM

Let me know how that works out, as I may want him to resolve the issue in mine as well. Have a great 4th

FloridaBoy 07-07-2015 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhparrot (Post 665081)
According to Dennis, this is the new layout for his universal single-ended class A stereo amplifier. Can take 6SL7, 6SN7 or 6BX7 input tubes; 6V6 to KT-150 output tubes; and 5Y3 to 5AR4 rectifiers. Will post up my feedback and a list of suggested/recommended driver/power/rectifier combinations.

The info below came from another forum:

Dennis said the amp can also use the following tube combination:
5 watts per channel - 6V6 output tubes and 5Y3 rectifier tube
7 watts per channel - 6L6, KT66, 5881 output and 5U4 rectifier
10 watts output - KT88, EL34, 6550, KT99, and KT120 output and 5U4/274B rectifier
12 watts output - KT-88, KT-120, KT-150 and 5AR4 rectifier

Power ratings are for the Ultra linear versions.

pstrisik 07-07-2015 10:18 AM

Looks familiar! From post #3 in this thread on 11-28-2013:

Quote:

Originally Posted by pstrisik (Post 555397)
I asked Dennis about the tube swaps possible with his amps and the following are possible with varying resulting output power, no need for biasing at all, only sometimes the need to change the rectifier tube to go with the chosen power tube:
  • 5 watts per channel - 6V6 output tubes and 5Y3 rectifier tube
  • 7 watts per channel - 6L6, KT66, 5881 output and 5U4 rectifier
  • 10 watts output - KT88, EL34, 6550, KT99, and KT120 output and 5U4/274B rectifier
  • 12 watts output - KT-88, KT-120, KT-150 and 5AR4 rectifier

What is that other forum?

FloridaBoy 07-07-2015 10:44 AM

It was posted on Audio Asylum.

FloridaBoy 07-07-2015 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhparrot (Post 711443)
Let me know how that works out, as I may want him to resolve the issue in mine as well. Have a great 4th

Did you try a cheater plug? It could possibly be a ground loop.


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