![]() |
|
|||||||
| JL Audio Ahead of the Curve |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
||||
|
Quote:
While I don't doubt the greatness of the JLs, I think that you will not be disappointed with your choice. I am definitely in the 2-subs are better than one camp. And I can sympathize with your preference for matching the looks of the subs to the speakers. I haven't tried the JLs, but I really like the REL approach of taking the high-level signal from the amp as opposed to using the pre-amp out. It might be psychological, but it does seem to integrate better with the 501s and SFs - especially since the 501s with the autoformers do "something" to the sound which I'd like to keep consistent throughout. Please let us know how your second REL works out. Hopefully it confirms the theory and expectation that 2 subs are better than one. Alberto
__________________
Sources: Thorens TD125 ii + SME 3009 + Clearaudio Maestro, McIntosh MDA1000 + MCD201, Sonos, Wadia 170i [Pre]Amplification: Shindo Monbrison->Cortese & Auriges->Montille, McIntosh C34V Speakers: Tannoy Sandringham |
|
||||
|
Ok guys, help me out. I feel like I just read thru the thread too fast. Am I reading that a fellow AA'er is keeping a $2K sub with 200 W output, instead of acquiring a $2K+ sub with 1500 W output (if youwent with an F112), and calibrates itself?
Am I missing something in the translation?
__________________
MX136, MC501s, MC402, MCD500 RtR 300Ds, JL Fathom F112, Mirage OM-C3, JBL 2600s Dual CS 606, Ortofon 2M Black Tandberg TD20A, Harmon Kardon HK 400xM PPP, Power Port, WW Ag Eclipse IC's & Speaker Cables, WW Ag Electra PC's Last edited by jetblack; 07-10-2010 at 05:42 PM. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
| Audio Aficionado Sponsors | |