The JL F112 Thread

[jetblack]

Originally Posted by schaefer11

Circuit breaker probably refers to your home circuit breaker, not a circuit breaker inside the sub. But if you plugged the Mirage back in and it continues to work, that is not the problem.

Thanks Schaefer, but I already knew that. I was just frustrated from a long day at the office, came home to set up the 'Xmas present' with no results, and then woke up in the middle of the night and couldn't get back to sleep. I know, I sound like I'm whining......................

Ivan was kind enough to call this morning (thanks, I.M.), and suggest I proceed thru the 'set-up process'. That's good advice, so when I had some time, I proceeded to venture into the 'set-up process' that begins on page 26 of the owners manual (I don't know why the set-up procedure is in the back of the owner's manual, but I won't worry about that now. I have several suggestions for the manufacturer concerning their manual, but I'll address that issue at a later time). Back to the issue at hand...................

I connect my Mac monitor video to the TV video input, so I can access the Mac set-up function. I proceed thru the steps on page 26.

The preamble of this section states that prior to updating the pre-amp settings, verify that the Fathom is 'off'. That doesn't really matter, because the Fathom doesn't power-up, regardless of what I do. Believe me, I even tried changing the way I hold my mouth during the process.

1) Speaker Size - Speakers set to 'small', x-over set to 80 Hz. Check.
2) Speaker Distance - Unchanged. Check.
3) Subwoofer Level - Set to '0'. Check.
4) Tone Controls - N/A

Active x-over section - N/A, because those settings were made in the previous section.

On to page 27.................

Now, the preamble states that the user should power off the pre-amp before powering up the Fathom. I can understand that logic during 'calibration', but I hope that's not the situation for powering up the sub and making adjustments.

1) Power Switch - Set to On. Check.
2) Lights Switch - Set to On. Check. "If you don't see any lights on the front panel," (which is the case here) "you may have forgotten to plug the Fathom in" (that's certainly not the case here) or "there may be a problem with the electrical circuit." (There's not a problem with the electrical circuit in my home. I'm placing my money on "there's a problem with the internal electrical circuit within the Fathom.")

"Houston............................we have problem."

As visually impressive as this beauty is, it's going back to the sender, because it's dead, dark, and silent. That is, unless someone has any other ideas.

[Still-One]

Whatever happened to plug and play???

[Masterlu]

Originally Posted by jetblack

Thanks Schaefer, but I already knew that. I was just frustrated from a long day at the office, came home to set up the 'Xmas present' with no results, and then woke up in the middle of the night and couldn't get back to sleep. I know, I sound like I'm whining......................

Ivan was kind enough to call this morning (thanks, I.M.), and suggest I proceed thru the 'set-up process'. That's good advice, so when I had some time, I proceeded to venture into the 'set-up process' that begins on page 26 of the owners manual (I don't know why the set-up procedure is in the back of the owner's manual, but I won't worry about that now. I have several suggestions for the manufacturer concerning their manual, but I'll address that issue at a later time). Back to the issue at hand...................

I connect my Mac monitor video to the TV video input, so I can access the Mac set-up function. I proceed thru the steps on page 26.

The preamble of this section states that prior to updating the pre-amp settings, verify that the Fathom is 'off'. That doesn't really matter, because the Fathom doesn't power-up, regardless of what I do. Believe me, I even tried changing the way I hold my mouth during the process.

1) Speaker Size - Speakers set to 'small', x-over set to 80 Hz. Check.
2) Speaker Distance - Unchanged. Check.
3) Subwoofer Level - Set to '0'. Check.
4) Tone Controls - N/A

Active x-over section - N/A, because those settings were made in the previous section.

On to page 27.................

Now, the preamble states that the user should power off the pre-amp before powering up the Fathom. I can understand that logic during 'calibration', but I hope that's not the situation for powering up the sub and making adjustments.

1) Power Switch - Set to On. Check.
2) Lights Switch - Set to On. Check. "If you don't see any lights on the front panel," (which is the case here) "you may have forgotten to plug the Fathom in" (that's certainly not the case here) or "there may be a problem with the electrical circuit." (There's not a problem with the electrical circuit in my home. I'm placing my money on "there's a problem with the internal electrical circuit within the Fathom.")

"Houston............................we have problem."

As visually impressive as this beauty is, it's going back to the sender, because it's dead, dark, and silent. That is, unless someone has any other ideas.

OK then, we get you a brand new shipped out on Monday!

Don't ship the old one back Dan, JL Audio will pay for the pickup as well

[jetblack]

Houston, we have lift-off of the F112. She's working like a champ. Thanks for the support Ivan! More to follow, after I've tweaked and peaked and calibrated.

Now I have two other issues:

1) My old sub will have to find another home.
2) I will have to find a way to rub this persisting smile off my face.

[Masterlu]

Great to hear Danny, enjoy the Best!

[kenreau]

Originally Posted by PMCH

I have my F112 conected to my MX136 thru the unbalanced RCA input from the LFE channel for HT and conected to my c2300 thru the balanced stereo inputs for stereo from the speaker outputs on the C2300. For HT I use the C2300 in passthru mode and calibrated the F112 for HT. For HT speakers are set as small at 80 crossover.
For stereo, only the C2300 is on with the output switch turned on to feed the F112 which I adjust via the remote for bass management. Has anyone done anything similar or have a better way to conect the F112 so that it can be used for both HT and stereo.

Hello to the AA.org. I just joined and this is my first time posting. I am on a similar quest as the above PMCH post with the desire to explore integrating my F112 with both my HT and 2-channel systems.

I have my F112 in place and went through the ARO set up. It receives a single rca mono sub out signal from my Integra DTC 9.8 HT Processor. I then ran the Audysessy room EQ set up.

My first allegiance is to two channel music, HT is secondary. My primary speakers are Harbeth 40.1's and considered relatively full range (Frequency Response ~40Hz - 20kHz ± 3dB). They do double duty as the front L & R speakers for HT. My listening/HT room is an open floor plan with no back wall (transitions into open kitchen/core of house) so Bass build up and room node issues are minimal I think.

For 2-channel music, I use a Dartzeel CTH 8550 Integrated amp which has RCA and REC outputs. The Dartzeel is used in a HT Bypass mode to power the front L & R for HT use.

My notion was I could just get a Y-adapter to sum the two Dartzeel RCA outputs into a single cable and input it into the unused F112 RCA right channel input. The question is then, can I optimize the Bass performance for just the separate 2-channel music and also for the HT? In theory I imagine the EQ/Xover set up, etc. would be similar if not the same, correct?

Is there a concensus that it would be a worthwhile effort to have the F112 also supplement my 2 channel speakers? It's starting to sound a little complicated, but I would be willing to take it on if there is a significant low frequency performance enhancement for 2 channel music.

Thanks
Kenreau

[jdandy]

kenreau.......Welcome to Audio Aficionado.

My first thought is you probably should not feed the two separate inputs to the sub individually from two separate sources. There may be grounding issues, phasing issues, or worse. Since you are using the Dartzeel integrated amp in pass through for HT, and also for dedicated two channel listening, I would feed the left and right channel f112 inputs from the Dartzeel, and not from the Integra. I am assuming you are running your Harbeth 40.1 speakers as "large" full range speakers in the Integra's setup menu, and if so then the front left and right speakers are getting all the LFE information fed to them as well as the subwoofer. This means that the same LFE information would arrive at the sub through the Dartzeel outputs during HT Bypass for home theater mode, and still have the sub performing properly for two channel listening.

[kenreau]

Originally Posted by jdandy

kenreau.......Welcome to Audio Aficionado.

My first thought is you probably should not feed the two separate inputs to the sub individually from two separate sources. There may be grounding issues, phasing issues, or worse. Since you are using the Dartzeel integrated amp in pass through for HT, and also for dedicated two channel listening, I would feed the left and right channel f112 inputs from the Dartzeel, and not from the Integra. I am assuming you are running your Harbeth 40.1 speakers as "large" full range speakers in the Integra's setup menu, and if so then the front left and right speakers are getting all the LFE information fed to them as well as the subwoofer. This means that the same LFE information would arrive at the sub through the Dartzeel outputs during HT Bypass for home theater mode, and still have the sub performing properly for two channel listening.

Hi Dan,

Thanks! Excellent recommendation. I never even considered that configuration. That may explain some odd LF Bass I was experiencing while in HT use. I've had the Harbeths about 1 month and never really felt like I got them dialed properly yet.

For the L & R front speaker HT set up with the Integra, should I continue to have them as large full range?

I will reconfigure and recalibrate things hopefully this weekend and report back.

Thanks again,
Kenreau

[jdandy]

Originally Posted by kenreau

Hi Dan,

Thanks! Excellent recommendation. I never even considered that configuration. That may explain some odd LF Bass I was experiencing while in HT use. I've had the Harbeths about 1 month and never really felt like I got them dialed properly yet.

For the L & R front speaker HT set up with the Integra, should I continue to have them as large full range?

I will reconfigure and recalibrate things hopefully this weekend and report back.

Thanks again,
Kenreau

Kenreau.......Yes, continue to have the left and right fronts set to "large". This is what will allow the LFE signals pass through the Dartzeel to the f112 subwoofer when watching movies. Hopefully this will help streamline the configuration. Let us know how it works out.

[kenreau]

Originally Posted by jdandy

Kenreau.......Yes, continue to have the left and right fronts set to "large". This is what will allow the LFE signals pass through the Dartzeel to the f112 subwoofer when watching movies. Hopefully this will help streamline the configuration. Let us know how it works out.

Dan, a few more questions came to mind. I just skimmed the Integra DTC processor set up manual and now wonder if under "Speaker Configuration" I should select "Yes" or "No" for the Subwoofer now that it will be used from the signal pass through from the Dartzeel FL & FR outputs?

This also makes me wonder if I could/should have two modes of operation set up? One mode for strictly 2-channel audiophile listening with only the Dartzeel Integrated using the Harbeths and JL Sub optimized to work together (HT gear is not in use and turned off) and, the second mode is HT use where everything is in use and integrated (JL Sub optimized for HT use - if different with LFE tv/movie effects?). I'm wondering if when in HT mode I will be missing a significant amount of LFE with the JL just being fed the L & R signals through the Dartzeel bypass?

Thanks again
Kenreau