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| B&W Speakers Bowers & Wilkins Greatest |
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Well it appears I blew both my tweeters
(yep, the little microphones) on may pair of 802d's. How I blew both at the same time. ummm got me. I turned on my stereo today and something sounded funny. At 1st I thought it was Pandora through my t.v. so I grabbed my "1812 overture" telarc cd and sure enough I can hear static through both. The more I listen the more pissed I am. I have blown every single pair of speakers I've owned. WTF am I doing wrong? I even upgraded to top of the line amps (see signature). I blew my Klipsch, Mirage, older b&w's I won't list the cheapies. I do listen to music loud, sometimes pushing my 501's to the edge but they never shut down. Besides, B&W speakers should be able to handle the load....right..... I remember watching a movie (chaos) its an older movie, when the house blew up I heard a loud pop-crack sound, I actually thought it was my sub just hitting low or bouncing off the walls. The rest of the movie sounded good. I even listened to Evanescence last night with a friend and it sounded fine. He did mention something sounded funny but I was also comparing WW equinox with WW eclipse demoing the difference in quality. I thought maybe it was just his ears. Maybe the movie fatigued the tweeter enough for my cd to pop them. Anyway's I bought them in Oct. 06. Please.Please.Please.Please. tell me there warrantied. both at the same time, hmmm sounds like a defect. I don't want to pack them, drive to dealership, etc Hopefully they can fix them at my house. I would even pay the drive here. As long as the tweeter's are warrantied. arghhhhh, can't find a damn speaker I can't blow..............The Wilson Sasha's sure are looking good now. Maybe its time for a trade or maybe a pair of 800d's, ya think they'll listen to my speakers first..lol
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I don't know if you are actually pushing the 501s to the max like you mentioned but if you are, you are exceeding the max capabilities of the 802Ds. Your 802D's are mostly a 4 ohm impedance from 10Khz to 20Khz. The 501s are capable of 1000w on short bursts from the 4 ohm tap into 4 ohms which is way above the 500w recommended by 802D.
You may have blown a crossover or maybe the tweeter but one thing for sure, it wasn't due to clipping since the 501s are not supposed to clip. I have to say, if you like to hear houses exploding through your speakers, maybe you should get a more robust speaker meant for that kind of abuse. See XR200 thread. Good luck with getting them fixed, hopefully it won't be too much of a hassle.
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System 7.1: Wilson Sasha/Mezzo/Watch surrounds D'Agostino Momentum x3 amps Bryston 4B SST2 x2 amps Krell S1200U pre/pro Oppo Blu Sony Blu changer McIntosh MS300 music server EAR/Yoshino Acute III tubed CDP Transparent Ultra cabling JL Audio F212 Sub Lumagen video processor JVC RS-35U projector Stewart Screen |
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1 MC501's is plugged into my monster hdp2500 power conditioner, that is plugged into the wall outlet 20amp circuit. The other MC501 is plugged into a power strip which is plugged into the same wall outlet. I only have 2 outlets, I really need to add another for dedicated stereo. I was testing to see if it made a difference between the Monster Power conditioner vs. directly to the wall. But it's been that way for the past few weeks.
After market 12g. power cables. I think they blew during a movie so they were not turned up that loud. Perhaps 30-35 on my MX-136. Music is played around 40+ volume level. It is possible they received a spike while listening to pandora via my blu ray player. sometimes pandora skips or whatever you want to call it when switching songs. I have my MC501's set at 8 ohm's, should I change them to 4 ohms? I never thought of that. |
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Do you think if it is just my tweeter the dealer can make a house call remove the tweeter and replace vs. packing up the entire speaker?
I should also say I dont always push my amps/speakers to the max but I do listen to loud volumes no louder than any showroom though. 80% volume set around 25-30. 20% of the time needles bounce between 50-500. Last edited by crytklmass; 11-14-2009 at 11:42 PM. |
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Myself, I would not plug the 501's into a conditioner or strip unless it is one that you are very comfortable that is not limiting power. That might be along the lines of the Shunyata Hydra, Transparent Power Isolator Reference or PPP's. I am not too familiar with some of the others.
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AMP's: D'Agostino Momentum's Pre Amp: Mcintosh C-1000 & C-1000P ![]() Sources: McIntosh MCD-1100 & MS-300, Olive 4HD, SonoS, Pro-Ject 6 PerspeX Speakers: MBL 111F Cables: Transparent Ultra MM2 & Reference MM2 & Powerlink MM2x |
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You can be watching a movie with an average amplifier output of 30 watts, and have an explosion or car crash, or earthquake where the sound peaks can easily be 15 to 18 dB above the average. Even a 12 dB peak over average will demad the amp to output 480 watts. A 15 dB peak over the stated average output can require an amp to deliver 960 watts peak. With the stated power handling capabilities of your speakers, that's just a 3 dB margin between safety, and obliterated tweeters.
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Dan ![]() Living Room System: McIntosh C2300, MC601 (2), MCD1100, MS750, MR85, Sony DAT 60ES, Nakamichi BX-300, Micro Seiki DD-40, Ortofon 2M Black, Sonos ZP90, Oppo BDP-83SE Blu-ray, PMC EB1i, Fathom f113 w/ Sound Anchor stand, Power Plant Premier (2), PS Audio Soloist Premier SE (3), Rollerblock Jr.'s, Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's & PC's, Kimber 8TC with WBT Solid Silver Angled Locking Banana Connectors. Studio System: McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MCD1100, MR88, Michell Gyro SE w/SME 309/Ortofon Cadenza Black, Sonos ZP90, PS Audio Power Plant Premier, PS Audio Soloist Premier SE, Sonus Faber Amati Anniversario, Rollerblock Jr.'s, Wireword Silver Eclipse IC's & PC's, Wireworld Silver Eclipse speaker cable. Studio Home Theater System: McIntosh MX120, MC452, Oppo BDP-95 Blu-ray, PS Audio Soloist Premier SE, JBL LSR-6332 (2), JBL LSR-6328P (3), McIntosh XLS112 (2), Sony 52XBR9, Tributaries Silver IC's, Wireworld PC's. Vintage: McIntosh MA5100, MR74 tuner, JVC XL-Z1050 K2 CD player, Wyred 4 Sound DAC2, Tandberg 3008A and 3026A, JBL4312A , McIntosh 4300V for deck speakers. |
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It was probably the explosion in the movie then. Thanks for the advice Stillone about switching to 4 ohms. Maybe if I had done that I wouldn't have this current problem. Guess you never know. I'll be adding an additional outlet as well. I guess I ass umed plugging them into my monster power conditioner would be better than directly into the wall. If I remove the tweeter to check if it's that or a crossover I'll void my warranty. Is there some way I can test to make sure it's the tweeter vs. just my ear? Maybe an SPL meter or special cd?
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If we assume that it was excessive power that did your tweeters or crossover in, then switching taps is irrelevant. The 501s will actually put out more power from the 4 ohm tap into a 4 ohm load. Since the 501s don't clip which is what usually kills tweeters, the fact that both of them got damaged at the same time, all leads me to believe that you simply exceeded the power handling capabilities of your speakers while watching a movie with exploding houses.
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System 7.1: Wilson Sasha/Mezzo/Watch surrounds D'Agostino Momentum x3 amps Bryston 4B SST2 x2 amps Krell S1200U pre/pro Oppo Blu Sony Blu changer McIntosh MS300 music server EAR/Yoshino Acute III tubed CDP Transparent Ultra cabling JL Audio F212 Sub Lumagen video processor JVC RS-35U projector Stewart Screen |
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Quote:
__________________
Dan ![]() Living Room System: McIntosh C2300, MC601 (2), MCD1100, MS750, MR85, Sony DAT 60ES, Nakamichi BX-300, Micro Seiki DD-40, Ortofon 2M Black, Sonos ZP90, Oppo BDP-83SE Blu-ray, PMC EB1i, Fathom f113 w/ Sound Anchor stand, Power Plant Premier (2), PS Audio Soloist Premier SE (3), Rollerblock Jr.'s, Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's & PC's, Kimber 8TC with WBT Solid Silver Angled Locking Banana Connectors. Studio System: McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MCD1100, MR88, Michell Gyro SE w/SME 309/Ortofon Cadenza Black, Sonos ZP90, PS Audio Power Plant Premier, PS Audio Soloist Premier SE, Sonus Faber Amati Anniversario, Rollerblock Jr.'s, Wireword Silver Eclipse IC's & PC's, Wireworld Silver Eclipse speaker cable. Studio Home Theater System: McIntosh MX120, MC452, Oppo BDP-95 Blu-ray, PS Audio Soloist Premier SE, JBL LSR-6332 (2), JBL LSR-6328P (3), McIntosh XLS112 (2), Sony 52XBR9, Tributaries Silver IC's, Wireworld PC's. Vintage: McIntosh MA5100, MR74 tuner, JVC XL-Z1050 K2 CD player, Wyred 4 Sound DAC2, Tandberg 3008A and 3026A, JBL4312A , McIntosh 4300V for deck speakers. |
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