Thanks Dan, I think it may be the voice coil which is why its hit or miss. At low levels everything sounds fine as soon as a loud boom or sound it seems to crackle under the stress. Ughhhhh.

Bob

Forgot to mention.... What about using a Radio Shack or similar SPL Meter? Never used one before, would that help? Im ignorant about this subject.

Which driver is the distortion coming from? The tweeter, mid or woofer? I would be surprised if the tweeter was involved in a polar bears roar, but you never know.

__________________
AMP's: D'Agostino Momentum's
Pre Amp: Mcintosh C-1000 & C-1000P
Sources: McIntosh MCD-1100 & MS-300, Olive 4HD, SonoS, Pro-Ject 6 PerspeX
Speakers: MBL 111F
Cables: Transparent Ultra MM2 & Reference MM2 & Powerlink MM2x

Are you getting the same problem with 2 channel music? It could be processor related problem.

__________________
System 7.1:
Wilson Sasha/Mezzo/Watch surrounds
D'Agostino Momentum x3 amps
Bryston 4B SST2 x2 amps
Krell S1200U pre/pro
Oppo Blu
Sony Blu changer
McIntosh MS300 music server
EAR/Yoshino Acute III tubed CDP
Transparent Ultra cabling
JL Audio F212 Sub
Lumagen video processor
JVC RS-35U projector
Stewart Screen

Didn't even consider the processor. I'll do some testing and see what happens.

hello

Sounds like your speaks are seeing too much DC. I would look at the output of your amp.

MC501s can not put out any DC by design. That is Zero. You may have overpowered your speakers and damaged them. This typically is when the voice coil and former are pulling loose from the diaphragm or dome. The way to check for this is to have your dealer bring out a frequency oscillator and sweep each speaker at a level of one or two watts. You will hear the buzz that will identify the offending speaker.
You can use MC501 with your speakers on the 8 or 4 ohm taps. If you play the system loudly you will quickly exceed the speakers 500 watt rating when using the 8 ohm tap. Peaks over 1500 watts are very possible and the speaker is not designed for that. 4 ohms is much safer but again you may peak over 500 watts. Monitoring the power meters on the amp is a good idea and keep the power below the speaker's 500 watt rating.

Thanks,

__________________
Ron-C

Ouch... Very sorry to hear about this situation. As an owner of the 802D, I was warned when i bought them that under no circumstance do they warrenty the Diamond Tweeters.. (well apart from manufacturer defect). Another customer's son infact removed the protective cover and touched the tweeter cause he probably wanted to know what a diamond tweeter felt like. They don't like to be touched.

I haven't even attempted to remove the cover off of mine, and in fact I'm not entirely sure they can be removed anymore due to similar situations as above.

The good news is, you can go out and get a pair of 800 or 801?

I think replacement tweet's are i the area of 1500-2000 bucks each, at least that is what i was told. And I have no idea of the complexity involved in changing them.

Good luck

p.s. I'm glad you posted this thread though.. Up till now i have had my mc300 feeding my 802D via the 8Ohm tap... I think I'll change it to the 4ohm tap. Knowledge is always good.

__________________
B&W 802Ds, HTM2D, 805s, JL Audio F113's, MX150, MC501s, MC205, MDA1000, Denon 3800BDCI, Sonos ZP90 (Cullin Mod), 60" Kuro
Cables - Cardas Golden Reference

Round one to Chuck.

Good point. It's why I read threads even though my equipement might be different or the topic seems unrelated. You always learn something or pick up little bits of knowledge.

Eddie

Bump for updates.

__________________
B&W 802Ds, HTM2D, 805s, JL Audio F113's, MX150, MC501s, MC205, MDA1000, Denon 3800BDCI, Sonos ZP90 (Cullin Mod), 60" Kuro
Cables - Cardas Golden Reference

Round one to Chuck.